Discovery Gaming Community

Nighthawk's BB-rific complete guide to ship building for Freelancer

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[color=white]Table of Contents
0.0 Introduction
1.0 The First Step
2.0 Beginning Construction - Choosing your tools
2.1 Beginning Construction - Modelling your ship
3.0 Post Construction - Fixing your mistakes
3.1 Post Construction - Gaps in the Mesh
3.2 Post Construction - Double faces
3.3 Post Construction - Hidden Faces
3.4 Post Construction - Stacked/unconnected verticies
3.5 Post Construction - Unconnected faces
3.6 Post Construction - Double Sided Faces
3.7 Post Construction - Useless faces/vertices
3.8 Post Construction - Final Notes
4.0 Texturing
4.1 Texturing - Importing your model
4.2 Texturing - Loading your Material files
5.0 Exporting CMP and Mat files - Coming Soon
6.0 Hardpointing Your Model - Coming Soon
7.0 Creating your Hitbox - Coming Soon
8.0 Writing .ini files - Coming Soon
9.0 Testing your Ship - Coming Soon
10.0 Preparing your Submission

0.0 Introduction

Welcome, wannabe ship builders for Freelancer. The aim of this guide is to help all the newbies to ship modding out there get their ideas off the ground and into a complete, submitable form. Note that this guide will not teach you how to build a model in 3D.

The first most important thing you need to know is that no one is going to do the work for you. We already have plenty of ships in the mod, and plenty of decent modellers, so if you want your artwork to be included, then you have to put in all the hard work. Submit a half completed model and no one else is going to be bothered finishing it for you, they aren't that desperate for new models.

At the same time, you need to understand that not every ship submitted for the Discovery Mod will be included with in the next update, so don't get too attached to your models and don't be upset or disappointed when they are not included. Submitting a model does not garuntee it will be included.

1.0 The First Step

So you want to make a model for Freelancer Discovery, huh? You've been tinkering around in a modelling program and think you've got something that looks pretty cool.

STOP!

[color=#ff8ffb]Before you begin building a model, you must
consider these things:
1) What faction so I want to build a ship for?
2) What ship class do I want to build?
3) Does this faction already have a ship of this class?
4) What is my ship's role?
5) Are there any other ships in this faction that have the same role?
6) Does this ship follow my chosen Faction's ship-building lore?

If your ship doesn't have a clear purpose and a unique role, then chances are it's not going to be added to the mod. If you start building a ship without a clear purpose or faction in mind, then chances are it's not going to fit into the game nicely, but rather be forced on top; making it no better than the imports we already have in the game.

2.0 Beginning Construction - Choosing your tools

Before you begin, take a look at what 3D modelling program you have. If you're looking at Milkshape, please exit the building through the nearest window. Other basic modelling programs you want to avoid where neccessary are things like Google Sketchup. While functional, they're not really ideal, and from what I've seen the works produced from such programs is not really up to standard.

At the very least, you should get your hands on Metasequoia. While still rather basic, it has adequate functionality for the kind of modelling work you will be doing. It is free to use, but exporting models becomes a problem unless you decide to pay for it.

Ultimately, the tool you really want to be using is 3DS Max. It is complicated to get a grip on the User Interface at first and has a slightly steeper learning curve. But it is an industry standard program, and the work you will produce from it will be of a higher quality.

I recommend either Metasequoia or 3DS Max (you will need 3DS Max for the .mqo importer if you ever want to get past the modelling stage in Metasquoia without purchasing the product)

http://www.metaseq.net/english/

At the very very least, make sure you are using a program capable of exporting to a format readable by Milkshape.

2.1 Beginning Construction - Modelling your ship

For the sake of length, I will not be including instructions on how to model. If you do not know, then this will be a learning progress for you. I may include a tutorial on the basic functions of Metasquoia at a later date, but for now you're on your own.

If you are a first time user I will offer some helpful tips to get you started.

First, go file and make sure Basic Mode is not checked. Second, to get the 4 port view, click the four box symbol located in the top right corner of the main view port.

Start with a Primitive Cube, and work from there. Always keep your cube centred.

It is best to halve your work by only constructing half of your model and then mirroring it when you complete your work. However if you're like me and you find it hard to envision what half the model would look like, build the whole thing but make sure you leave a split down the middle where you can cut your model in half when you are done and mirror it to create a symmetrical model.

3.0 Post Construction - Fixing your mistakes

As a modeller it is your job alone to make sure your model is as mistake free as possible. Ideally you should correct your mistakes as you build the model and not leave it all to the end, but it is good to double check your model once you are finished. If you have not already done so, now is a good time to cut your model in half and mirror it.

Here is a small checklist of common mistakes:
1) Gaps in the Mesh
2) Double faces
3) Hidden Faces
4) Stacked/unconnected verticies
5) Unconnected faces
6) Double Sided Faces
7) Useless faces/vertices

I will go into more detail on these common mistakes, how to spot them, why they should be avoided and simple ways to fix them. Note that I use Metasequoia for building my models, and some functions will vary between different programs.

For this tutorial I will be using my latest model, a Slipsteam replacement concept. All the model issues have been fabricated for the sake of demonstration.

3.1 Post Construction - Gaps in the Mesh

Gaps in the mesh are visible holes between faces. They are bad, and there is absolutely no reason for you to have a gap in your mesh. If you see it, FIX IT!

A problem like this can be fixed simply and quickly by using the "create" tool in Metasequoia to create a new face between the surrounding verticies.

3.2 Post Construction - Double Faces

Much like Gaps in the mesh, there is absolutely no reason you ever need a double face. They don't often happen, but if you see it, fix it! Double faces can cause rendering issues and increase your poly count.

See how the two wires cross over without connecting? That indicates there is a double face in that section. Not all double faces are this easy to spot, so be vigilant.

3.3 Post Construction - Hidden Faces

Again, hidden faces are never needed. No one's ever going to see them, so why have them? It is better to optimize your mesh and delete hidden faces. Spotting hidden faces can be tricky! They most often occur when creating Extrusions or creating faces over top of other faces, as well as when connecting two primitives or faces together.

Don't confuse these with internal faces, such as those in your cockpit. Hidden faces are faces that will -never- be seen by anyone.

3.4 Post Construction - Stacked/Hidden Verticies

Stacked verticies are two verticies that occupy the same space, but are not connected. It is nearly impossible to spot, but luckily you don't have to. By using the "join closed verticies" tool you can automatically connect all vertices on top of, and in close range of each other.

Make sure you are only building your model with in one group. Verticies will not join if they are stacked on different groups. The tool can be found in the Object drop down menu of Metasequoia. Use. It. Regularly.

3.5 Post Construction - Unconnected Faces

Unconnected faces are one of the more common problems, one which is easily overlooked. It comes from when a Verticie is not attached to all of the surrounding faces, creating an invisible gap in the mesh that will cause rendering issues in-game.

You can see these two verticies are touching the faces around them, and there are no visable gaps. This is what makes spotting unconnected faces difficult. However, by knowing a face can connect to no more than four verticies, we can begin to spot these problems. Faces are either quads or tris, no more, no less.

The Verticies are now connected properly.

A simple way of spotting these gaps is to turn off all the verticiles and wireframe in your main viewport, and look at the model.

This is what you are looking for. This indicates one of two things: There is an unconnected face, or a hidden face connected to that like at an adjacent angle.

3.6 Post Construction - Double Sided Faces

Double Sided faces are when two faces are placed back to back and connected by the same verticies. They are similar to hidden faces, only in some cases they can be useful. For example, if they are hidden with in the model, delete them. But if they are covering the underside of the canopy interior, then they are okay. Double sided faces do not cause rendering issues, but having hidden doublefaces will increase your poly count. You want to keep your mesh optimized, so remove any hidden double faces.

3.7 Post Construction - Useless faces/vertices

Useless faces and vertices are sections of the model with extra verticies (and therefore faces) that do not add any detail to the mod, and simply do not need to be there. By removing them, we optimize the model and reduce our poly count, and that is our goal.

These faces were left over from my method of construction, but are no longer needed now that the model is finished, so let's get rid of them!

Not only is it tidy, but it will also be easier for you to texture your model with a clean mesh.

3.8 Post Construction - Final Notes

Optimizing your mesh and removing mistakes is important. You do now want to be going back and fixing your mistakes after you start texturing, or you may be forced to start texturing all over again!

No one us going to fix your mistakes for you, if you want your ship to be in the game you have to do it yourself!

Once you are satisfied your model has no more errors or useless verticies, it is time to texture.

4.0 Texturing

So you've finally finished modelling and are ready to texture. Texturing is a very time consuming process, but don't worry, because it's not difficult once you know how to use the program. It just takes a very long time, and this is why I say it is essential to ensure your model is complete and bug-free before you start texturing.

Now, I'm not going to write a guide on how to texture because Frozen has already made an excellent guide here. While texturing is possbile in Metasquoia and Milkshape, I have never textured in Metasequoia so I couldn't tell you how, and I do not recommend using Milkshape for anything if you have an alternative available.

But since not everyone has a copy of 3DS Max, legal or otherwise, some people might be forced to use alternative texturing means. Texturing in Milkshape is actually rather similar to texturing in 3DS Max, but from my experience 3DS Max tends to produce better results. I'll write a quick guide on how to prepare yourself for texturing in Milkshape.

4.1 Texturing - Importing your model

Even if you textured in another program you will probably need the next two steps!

First, you're going to need Milkshape. If you don't have it, you can get it from this .rar file provided by Frozen.

http://www.mediafire.com/?wd2dicmnnzy

Once you have this working, it's time to import. This is typically done through importing .3ds files, but Milkshape has a large library of included formats for file importing. Find the one you need and import your model to Milkshape.
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/7299/29874632.png

You'll see that your model is not currently oriented correctly.

First you'll want to right click on the top left view port and check the "textured" box. This views the model with textures in that view port only, we need to see which way our model is facing so we can orient it correctly. Next select your model using ctrl+a and choose the "Rotate" tool on the right hand toolbar.

Do NOT manually rotate your model. Rotate your model ONLY by entering values into the provided fields. This will engure your model stays exactly symmetrical and exactly face on. Rotate your model in incraments of 90 only.
You will typically only need to rotate the X any Y axis. Rotate your model until the front of your ship is displayed in the top left window.

This is important, because your model will not be oriented correctly in-game if you do not orient it correctly before exporting.

http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/3034/75795138.png

Final step in preparing your model to texture is to centre it. It's likely that your model is not centred correctly after rotating. Select the "Move" tool from the toolbar and from the drop down list select "Absolute"
Leave all of the fields at 0 and hit the move button. This will centre your model to the middle of the scene. Unless it is Asymmetrical, in which case you will likely be required to manually ensure the model is centred, but unless you build an asymmetrical model on purpose this should not be the case.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5787/64085568.png

4.2 Texturing - Loading your Material files

Before you load your textures into materials, you'll need them first, right? If you are using custom textures, skip the next paragraph and move on.

For most ships, you'll most likely need the Vanilla Texture files. Frozen again has prepared this for you in an easy .rar file.
http://www.mediafire.com/?mmytfzcmoec
You young ones have it easy. Modellers back in the day had to extract the texture files themselves from the .mat files xD

Alright, now you've got all the texture files you need it's time to load them into Milkshape. Go to the Materials Tab on the right hand toolbar.

If you are importing an already textured model, you will see something like this
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8900/18609690.png

Click the button that has the name of your texture in it, and navigate to the correct texture. It is important that you load the correct texture or it will not display correctly on your model, these Materials have already been pre-assigned to your model. Repeat until all steps for your material files, and you're done.

If you are working with an untextured model, this window will be blank, so lets make some materials. First thing, click the "New" button, this will create a material, but there is currently no texture assigned to it. So you'll want to click the top <none> button and navigate to your texture file.
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/3133/41769350.png

Now type a name into the provided box for your material. I recommend using the same name as given in your texture file. Then hit the "rename button" and you're done. Repeat until you have all your materials loaded.
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/9238/10017991.png

Finally, you'll need your cockpit glass. Create a new material file, and give it a name. This part is very important for your ship, if you are creating a new ship for an existing ship line, you will need to name this cockpit glass the same as the cockpit glass of the ship you are mimicing.

For unique ships not belonging to any ship line, you will either give your glass a unique name, or you will give the glass the name of another ship's cockpit glass if you want the same colour. If you are using a unique cockpit glass with a non-unique name it will cause swapping issues!

Examples of the existing names are:
c_glass - (Rogue/Molly)
l_glass - (Liberty)
b_glass - (Bretonia)
k_glass - (Kusari)
r_glass - (Rhienland)
etc

Next you'll want to set the colour of your cockpit glass. If you're mimicing an existing cockpit glass, simply having this texture named the same will be enough and you are not required to preform this step, but you may wish to do so any way.
Click the "diffuse" button just beneath the material display and pick your cockpit glass colour. You can also enter RGB values which can be useful in mimicing other cockpit glass colours.

When you've got your colour, you need to make your glass transparent. Move the slider bar under the "Emissive" button to choose your transparency. Freelancer cockpit glasses typically use about 70% opacity.
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/155/46212476.png

All your materials should now be set. If you have already textured your model in 3DS Max you can skip to straight to the Exporting step.

tansytansey

tansytansey

tansytansey